So I didn’t like my last Kirkland (aka Costco) Small Batch Bourbon, because it was really just Jim Beam. On my last trip to Costco, I noticed this newcomer to the shelf, which was proudly labelled “by Barton 1792 Master Distillers”. Ok, I thought, at least it’s not Beam. I bought a bottle.
Just like Very Old Barton and 1792, this Kentucky Straight bourbon was distilled at the Barton 1792 distillery in Bardstown, Kentucky. It’s a small batch bourbon without an age statement (so, minimum 4 years old) bottled at 46% ABV. My bottle says “Batch 1124” and cost only $19 for a 1-liter bottle.
Note that Kirkland is also selling Bottled-in-Bond and Single Barrel versions of this Barton bourbon, but I only saw the Small Batch at my location.
Nose: Cherry-laden, like sticky cherry pie filling. Negligible nose tickle. A touch of tutti frutti or fruit punch. Some nice caramel and a little oak… basic but pleasant.
Palate: Thin body. Mild to moderate tongue burn, appropriate for this proof. Again the first impression is of fruit punch with cherries, corn bread, and circus peanuts (banana-flavored candy) to follow. Very consistent with the aroma, which is to say it’s still basic but pleasant, with no off or bitter flavors. Only a touch of charcoal.
Finish: Medium length. A little drying oak tannin comes in, along with a bit of charcoal bitterness. The cherry lingers, though, providing a nice balance though the finish, which fades without evolving.
With Water: Several drops of water have little effect on the aroma, but sweeten the flavors on the palate slightly. Water doesn’t hurt, here, but also doesn’t make much difference.
Overall: A structurally sound, if basic bourbon. There are few of the heavy oak / sweet corn notes that one associates with classic bourbon. Still, there’s nothing wrong with a lighter bourbon especially if the goal is cocktails. The price is spot-on, so while you won’t be wowed, you could hardly be disappointed for $20 a liter.
I marked it “Recommended” because it’s essentially Very Old Barton at 46% for a very reasonable price on the West Coast. If you have access to “real” VOB, just buy as many bottles of the BIB (bottled-in-bond) as you can, and ignore Costco.
I just now knocked off my liter of the Kirkland Barton Small Batch. It’s standard Barton: thin, medicinal, unpleasant. BUT — it’s only $20. You can hardly argue with the price; Costco is practically giving the stuff away. And as with so many not-so-great whiskies, it starts to taste better after a while because you lose perspective if it’s the only thing you’re drinking. That’s how I managed to knock off the entire liter.
That said, I chose not to buy another, even at the bargain basement price. It was an interesting experiment. Now the experiment’s done. Back to better bourbon.
If no age statement exists on the label then it is a minimum of four years old. If younger than four years bourbon requires an age statement. Older than four years does not.
Thanks for the correction! I’ve updated the review.